The Rachel A Versatile Dinghy       Copyright 1996 by Mark Anderson Riparia Boats Updated 12/12/04 Click on image to enlarge

Riparia Resouces

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I designed the Rachel to meet a specific need that I had. I wanted a boat that would tow easily, be seaworthy in the manner of a dory, be easy to build, be rugged yet lightweight, unsinkable, row easily, sail, stow essentially all gear within the boat, be attractive and stow on the limited foredeck of my 30 ft. sloop. I think I have succeeded. Some boats may be better load carriers for their length by making them wide and flat, but that would sacrifice several other characteristics. Specifically they row less well, have little warning before they capsize, are less attractive and are more of an obstruction on deck.

Inspired by a 10 foot Herreschoff pram featured in John Gardner's Building Classic Small Craft, I shortened it to less than 8 ft. (as long as I could make it without scarfing plywood), changed to double chine stitch and tape construction and kept the basic hull form.

The boat is easily built on a simple building frame over a single mold. Panel shapes are easy to lay out and stitch together. I built the prototype with 1/2 in. transoms and 1/4 in. hull panels. It is sheathed inside and out with 6 oz. fiberglass cloth. It is very rugged and weighs about 100#. Weight could be saved be using thinner ply for hull panels except for the bottom and 4 oz. glass or even eliminating the glass sheathing if you can tolerate less abrasion resistance. Personally I suggest you keep the sheathing. You could also eliminate the buoyancy tanks and depend on the wood itself for buoyancy. The built in aluminum pivoting centerboard could be eliminated in lieu of a dagger board for sailing. The tanks however add rigidity and make it float higher when flooded. You can sit in it and row it flooded if you need to when the water is too rough to allow you to bale. So far I've only been able to capsize it intentionally since the deadrise gives it increasing stability as it heels. I feel secure standing in it to do work on the sloop or for fishing.

Only you can determine if this design is appropriate for you. I will assume no liability for your use or construction of this boat. I merely assert that it has served me well.

The considerable rocker increases stability and maneuverability while keeping the transom from dragging. It rows very easily and the skegs give it directional stability. The rocker precludes it from planing so I wouldn't recommend anything but the smallest of outboards. It was designed to row.

The prototype's beam was limited to 3' 6" to minimize its obstruction while carried on deck. Since the bottom is flat, if you want more beam simply widen the bottom panel and the transoms by 6 to 9 in.on the centerline. No curves need to be changed. This will give greater carrying capacity, roominess, stability, and weight and may be a good idea if you've got the room. Making it narrower is not recommended. As built, I once carried 640# (3 adult men and a dog) but I admit it was overloaded. I frequently carry myself, my wife and my two kids (8 and 12 yrs. old) with no problems. I don't know what the coast guard would say but 450-500# seems a reasonable limit in reasonable conditions. How do I get good weight distribution? Note the longitudinal seat that is supported by a web keelson and covers the centerboard case. This seat allows extensive flexibility in fore and aft weight distribution to preserve the proper trim. Two rowing stations are provided. Alone I row in the aft position, with one passenger, the passenger sits aft and I row from forward. Alternatively, alone you can spin around on the seat and row facing forward. There are no ribs to interfere with feet or cleaning and the oars and sailing rig stow out of the way under the seat.

The transoms are concave on top, with the edge protected by leather, so that the upside down dinghy is self-chocking on the convex foredeck. The transom has a sculling notch that doubles as a fairlead when rowing out an anchor. The transoms also have cutouts for carrying handles. The towing eye is low in the bow transom.

Dual skegs make it track well rowing or towing. They have cutouts to function as handholds when it's on the foredeck. The skegs are preferably oak or other durable wood so that you can drag the boat up a rocky beach without damaging the hull. They support the boat upright on the beach.

The Rachel tows straight and secure without surging. The flare lets it right quickly from side waves and gives extra ultimate stability as it heels. I once towed it from the Straits of Juan de Fuca to and over the notorious Columbia River bar on an ebb tide. My sloop took two successive breakers into the cockpit yet the Rachel was found to have less than a cup of water in it from the whole trip.

The Rachel's sailing rig is designed to be out of the way under the seat when not being used. The prototype has a pivoting aluminum centerboard under the seat so that you don't have to find a place to store a dagger board. You could use a daggerboard if you wish and save a bit of weight in the hull but you'd have to insert a plug when towing so that water doesn't squirt in through the slot. With a centerboard the only hole is 3/8 in. diam.and mostly filled with the 1/4 in. lanyard. Perhaps the trade-off is more tendency for the board to jam with sand or pebbles. The lug-sail I use has spars short enough to stow under the seat out of the way. The only piece that can get in the way is the rudder with kick up blade. If you find yourself in need of sailing and you left the rudder elsewhere, just drop an oar into the sculling notch to use as a steering sweep. If you want more sail area, I also have used a larger sprit rig but the spars won't stow inboard. The simple solid mast is unstayed and supported by a thwart near the bow.

Every boat is a series of compromises but I think the Rachel fulfills its function very well. I hope it will do the same for you. Plans with basic step by step instructions and photos are only $30.00. They allow you to make one dinghy. Foreign sales, (except Canada) are $35. Plans have been sold coast to coast throughout North America and to Europe and the Orient.

Oh yes, the name. As the smallest boat in my fleet it is named after the youngest of my close relatives, a niece.